Best 3D printers with high-temp heated beds
Updated 5 November 2026 · Live prices updated daily
Printers whose heated bed clears 100 °C. Essential for reliable ABS, ASA and PA-CF adhesion without lifting corners.
- #1
QIDI TECHQIDI MAX4 3D-Drucker€1049 CoreXY · heated chamber · 51.7 L · 370°C · Loadcell Sensor Integrated int - #2
ANYCUBICKobra S1 Max 3D Drucker Mehrfarbig€849 CoreXY · heated chamber · 42.9 L · 350°C · LeviQ 3.0 - #3
FLASHFORGECreator 5 Pro 3D Drucker€799 CoreXY · heated chamber · 16.8 L · 320°C · Fully Automatic Calibration & - #4
SovolSV08 Max Großer 3D Drucker Core XY Voron 2€949 CoreXY · 125.0 L · 300°C · Eddy Current Scanning - #5
ORIGINAL PRUSA3D Drucker CORE One+ Full Bausatz – High-S€1049 CoreXY · heated chamber · 14.8 L · 290°C · Load cell - #6
FLASHFORGECreator 5 3D Drucker€639 CoreXY · 16.8 L · 320°C · Fully Automatic Calibration & - #7
CrealityEnder-5 Max 3D Drucker€899 CoreXY · 64.0 L · 300°C · 64-point auto leveling - #8
PHROZENArco FDM 3D-Drucker€550 CoreXY · 27.0 L · 300°C - #9
ANYCUBICKobra X 3D Drucker Mehrfarbig€299 Bedslinger · 17.6 L · 300°C - #10
ELEGOOCentauri Carbon 3D-Drucker€320 CoreXY · 16.8 L · 320°C · Auto-leveling
No listings match your current marketplace selection - tick more sources above.
Matt's take
Bed temperature is the quiet spec that separates "can print ABS if you cross fingers" from "prints ABS reliably". Most PLA-focused machines top out at 70-80 °C because that is all PLA needs. ABS wants 100-110 °C, ASA similar, and filled nylons 90-110 °C. Without that bed heat, corners peel as the print cools and you end up running a brim or raft on every part. Pair with an active heated chamber for best results - bed heat alone helps but doesn't fully solve warp on tall ABS.
Frequently asked
Do I need a 100 °C heated bed? +
Only if you print ABS, ASA, or filled nylons. PLA and PETG are happy at 60-80 °C. If you never leave PLA territory, a high-temp bed is unused capability.
Why does bed temperature matter for ABS? +
ABS shrinks as it cools from its 100 °C+ print temperature. A hot bed keeps the bottom layers near glass transition, so the shrink happens gradually rather than snapping the print off the plate at hour three.
Is a garolite/FR4 bed surface different from PEI? +
Garolite is the de-facto surface for nylon because nylon refuses to stick to PEI. If you plan to print nylon, check that the printer either ships a garolite plate or accepts a swap-in one. Otherwise it is an extra £30 and often an extra week's wait.
Related reading
Ranking is spec-driven. It favours printers that objectively have the capabilities this shortlist targets. Firmware, support quality and long-term reliability aren't on the spec sheet - read the full printer page and owner reports before committing.
